Frequently Asked Technical Questions
Is lag bolting the bottom chord of a truss to the top plate of a wall a proper fix to correct truss arching, assuming the attic is properly vented?
I want to get a good definition on what causes “truss lift,” when the trusses will actually raise off the top plates of interior walls (even when nailed), causing the drywall to crack. Is it from drastically different temperatures in the attic and living area?
I installed roof trusses in my house and dry walled the ceiling to the bottom of the trusses. Now I seem to have a problem with the change of the seasons. Where the ceiling meets the interior wall, a gap opens and closes – in winter it opens, in summer it closes. What did I do wrong, how can I correct it and how should the drywall be installed in the first place?
I'm looking for a book that will provide formulas and design criteria for trusses. Can you give me any suggestions of where to find a book or fairly inexpensive software?
I am building a new shop that is 30 ft. x 32 ft. I need to free-span the 30 ft. dimension. Where can I get a load chart that recommends lumber size and strategic locations of the angle braces to support the free span? I am going to field erect the trusses and stick build them on the building.
I am planning a 36 ft. x 60 ft. clear-span horse barn with posts set 12 ft. O.C. If I use 2x6 verses 2x4 wood trusses what would the proper spacing be? The roofing is 29 ga. K-panels metal with insulation, and winter snowfall is minimal in our area.
Recently, I was invited to view a newly-constructed 60 ft. by 36 ft. barn, with homemade big timber trusses as follows: 36 ft. span, 12/9 pitch, construction was 26 ft. 2x12 rafters, bracing 2x6, ceiling joists were 36 ft. boxed, 6x12 out of overlapping (6 ft.), 2x12 glued and nailed center, 16 feet of joist doubled as an 8 ft. high loft, floor trusses were on 12 ft. centers atop posts deeply anchored with good footings, roof and wall cross ties were 2x6 on edge every 24 in., floor cross ties in the loft were 2x8 on edge every 16 in., 4 ft. snow load. My daughter and her husband now want to build this same barn, but I am concerned about the combined snow and floor loads. Is this a sound structure?
We are building a garage with a bedroom and bathroom and trying to find out what type of floor joists and roof trusses to use. The garage will be a 26 ft. by 32 ft. with a 26 ft. by 32 ft. room upstairs. But we don't want to have posts in the middle of the garage to help support the weight of the second floor.
I am currently working on a project where a wood truss system was loaded with a heavy spring snow. I do not believe the load was beyond the truss's design capacity, but how do you know? Is there safety built into wood trusses? If the trusses were loaded beyond their design capacity, it would not have been for a long duration.
The lumber used in most metal plate connected wood trusses is either visually- or mechanically-graded solid sawn dimensional lumber. However, the Truss Plate Institute's ANSI/TPI 1 allows the use of structural composite lumber (SCL) products such as laminated veneer lumber (LVL), laminated strand lumber (LSL) and parallel strand lumber (PSL). These engineered wood products can conceivably compete with sawn lumber and complement it in truss designs. The qualification in ANSI/TPI 1 is that the truss designs incorporating these products must be reviewed and approved by the truss designer. Even though the option is available, some structural composite lumber may not be practical in metal plate connected truss applications. As a truss manufacturer, how can I incorporate structural composite lumber (SCL) into my truss designs?