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I am conducting an investigation on the costs associated with building a 15,000 sq. ft. addition to an existing school building. I need to determine if wood trusses, steel bar joists or light gauge steel trusses would be the most economical material for the building system. The truss spans range from 42 ft. to 56 ft.
How much weight can a wood truss hold, when it’s made with 2x4 material and spans 36 ft. with a 4/12 pitch. I would like to hang things from the ceiling and am wondering if it is safe. I live in an area where there are heavy snowstorms. Also, how much exposure to the weather can a truss handle before there is a problem?
We are looking into developing the attic space above our garage into a media room. The garage is attached to the home and we would enter this area from the living room. We recently read if you have a truss system that in order to develop the attic, one would have to replace the entire roof with conventional construction. My question is: can we safely develop this trussed area above our garage?
Does SBCA produce any products detailing how to market and sell roof and floor trusses to builders for whom stick framing has been the standard way of building? Products that detail the cost savings when compared to traditional stick framing?
Is it possible to attach deck ledger boards to the ends of floor trusses? If not, are there any modifications that would make this possible?
Do you have any information on the use of in-floor radiant heat with 4x2 open-web floor trusses? Are there any adverse effects to the lumber as a result of moisture build up?
While building a new 2-story home, I found the need to use floor trusses between the 1st and 2nd floors. Is it true that I must also use roof trusses?
How long has the truss industry been around and where did it start?
I own and live in the middle unit of a one-story tri-plex that has a truss-framed roof. The interior has high ceilings that would potentially allow the addition of a second floor room. I am contemplating adding a shed dormer to create a second story bedroom. Do you have any suggestions as to how a shed dormer could be added? I am familiar with how to frame up a shed dormer if the original framing were rafters and a ridge board, but the truss construction has thrown me for a loop.
I am building a home and want to use floor trusses. How can I find a local manufacturer?
I need to put a new roof on my single-family dwelling. The house originally had gable and soffit/eave vents. The roofing contractor suggested that we install a ridge vent when new roof is installed. Should the existing gable vents be blocked off or does it not matter? I have read some debates about whether or not the combination of gable and ridge vents substantially reduces the effect of the soffit vents by having the intake now at the gable vents and exhaust at the ridge. Would this type of ventilation affect the truss warranty?
I am doing research for clients who have flat roof trusses to which they are adding a second story. We are now looking for information on the trusses to determine what their load capability is. What do you need to know to help us determine this?
We are changing plans from a two story home to a one story home. The original roof pitch is 12/12 with three dormer windows, one large one in the center and a smaller one on either side. Can you tell us what pitch would be advisable under this new plan still using the dormers?
We have been using Turb-O-Webs for about four months. We are very happy with their performance, although there have been a few ripples along the way. The main thing that concerns me at present is the need for performance documentation and testing data. Do you have anything that will help, or know of people or organizations that could offer assistance?
We would like to know if there is a problem with using wood floor trusses with masonry bearing walls without a ledger. Our local supplier has told me that encasing the wood truss in the masonry wall could be detrimental to the truss due to moisture. What, if any, suggestions do you have for this condition? If a bottom chord bearing is used, do the trusses need fire cuts? The two-story building contains masonry bearing walls with wood trusses on the second floor and wood trusses at the roof.
We are experiencing problems with bouncy wood floor trusses. I'm wondering what the industry standard is on deflections (live and total load). Also, do you have any ideas on how to decrease the deflection without affecting the profit margin significantly?
Does SBCA have any guidelines regarding the size of a room in an attic truss? I have used a formula, length of room in inches divided by the depth of the bottom chord equaling less than 22. I was curious if any extensive studies or published articles giving more exact guidelines are available.
Is there a general rule of thumb to follow on chase placement within a top-chord bearing floor truss? In other words, how close to the bearing point of the truss can the chase occur?
How do trussed roofs perform in long-term service? Are there any reports of rusting in the nail plates, rot/insect attack, do-it-yourself modifications, or condensation and ventilation problems in the attic?
My framers are always complaining that the “trusses are bad.” I am looking for tolerance information that not only addresses the allowable variance in length and height, but also allowable variation in the top chord with regard to straightness (i.e. how straight should a pull string line from the top and bottom of top chord be?). Also, if trusses are set on a perfectly level wall, what variation is allowed from truss to truss (i.e. if I put a 10 ft. straight edge perpendicular to the trusses, how much can they vary in height, not just at peak or bottom but all along the top chord)?
What is the recommended way to frame gable end overhangs?
A condominium project I am involved with is experiencing a sound transfer problem through the floor/ceiling assembly between the first and second floor. You can hear every footstep, from an adult to a child. The floor assembly consists of a carpet and pad, 3/4 in. OSB sub-flooring, 15 in. deep wood trusses at 16 in. on center, 9 in. fiberglass batt insulation and a 5/8 in. gypsum board ceiling. The trusses span 20 ft. with air/heat ducts between the trusses. Will an additional layer of 5/8 in. gypsum board attached to 7/8 in.
I am looking for a company that can properly transport wood roof trusses on a one-time basis that are too large to fit into a box trailer. Trusses are to be fabricated in NC. Do you have any recommendations? Could be a specialty hauler or another truss fabricator in the area that has the special frame truss hauling trucks.
I stamp the bottom chord of my trusses with my company name and the name of my third-party inspector. Recently, my local building inspector requested another stamp with the on-center spacing, the total design load and the load duration factor. I have never heard of this before and I was wondering if you had any further information on this requirement.
I am researching building products for a new home and I wanted to use metal plate connected floor trusses. When I took my plans to the builder, they cautioned me against using these floor trusses. They stated that they were not engineered products, they do not carry any kind of warranty, and they do not know how long they last over time. My basement span is 30 ft., they said trusses could not span 30 ft. I really would like to use floor trusses, but now I am unsure. Could you offer any information?
We keep having problems with dry wall joints raising on the vaulted bottom chords in the track homes that we are building. The joints run from front to back of the house and the trusses bear on the side walls. The trusses are mostly 2-point bearing (a few in the front and back of the building are tri-bearing). The trusses span 40 ft. and have a 4/12 pitch with a tile roof. Is it common to have dry wall problems as the trusses deflect? How long should the roof be loaded before hanging sheetrock? Should the heel of the truss be allowed to slide out on the top plate?