Frequently Asked Technical Questions
Does SBCA have any guidelines regarding the size of a room in an attic truss? I have used a formula, length of room in inches divided by the depth of the bottom chord equaling less than 22. I was curious if any extensive studies or published articles giving more exact guidelines are available.
Is there a general rule of thumb to follow on chase placement within a top-chord bearing floor truss? In other words, how close to the bearing point of the truss can the chase occur?
How do trussed roofs perform in long-term service? Are there any reports of rusting in the nail plates, rot/insect attack, do-it-yourself modifications, or condensation and ventilation problems in the attic?
My framers are always complaining that the “trusses are bad.” I am looking for tolerance information that not only addresses the allowable variance in length and height, but also allowable variation in the top chord with regard to straightness (i.e. how straight should a pull string line from the top and bottom of top chord be?). Also, if trusses are set on a perfectly level wall, what variation is allowed from truss to truss (i.e. if I put a 10 ft. straight edge perpendicular to the trusses, how much can they vary in height, not just at peak or bottom but all along the top chord)?
A condominium project I am involved with is experiencing a sound transfer problem through the floor/ceiling assembly between the first and second floor. You can hear every footstep, from an adult to a child. The floor assembly consists of a carpet and pad, 3/4 in. OSB sub-flooring, 15 in. deep wood trusses at 16 in. on center, 9 in. fiberglass batt insulation and a 5/8 in. gypsum board ceiling. The trusses span 20 ft. with air/heat ducts between the trusses. Will an additional layer of 5/8 in. gypsum board attached to 7/8 in. furring strips oriented perpendicular to the trusses minimize the sound of the footsteps? If not, what would be the way to go with this problem?
I am looking for a company that can properly transport wood roof trusses on a one-time basis that are too large to fit into a box trailer. Trusses are to be fabricated in NC. Do you have any recommendations? Could be a specialty hauler or another truss fabricator in the area that has the special frame truss hauling trucks.
I stamp the bottom chord of my trusses with my company name and the name of my third-party inspector. Recently, my local building inspector requested another stamp with the on-center spacing, the total design load and the load duration factor. I have never heard of this before and I was wondering if you had any further information on this requirement.
I am researching building products for a new home and I wanted to use metal plate connected floor trusses. When I took my plans to the builder, they cautioned me against using these floor trusses. They stated that they were not engineered products, they do not carry any kind of warranty, and they do not know how long they last over time. My basement span is 30 ft., they said trusses could not span 30 ft. I really would like to use floor trusses, but now I am unsure. Could you offer any information?
We keep having problems with dry wall joints raising on the vaulted bottom chords in the track homes that we are building. The joints run from front to back of the house and the trusses bear on the side walls. The trusses are mostly 2-point bearing (a few in the front and back of the building are tri-bearing). The trusses span 40 ft. and have a 4/12 pitch with a tile roof. Is it common to have dry wall problems as the trusses deflect? How long should the roof be loaded before hanging sheetrock? Should the heel of the truss be allowed to slide out on the top plate?